In Japan, our accommodation was a mix of private hostel rooms (with share bathrooms) and 3 Star hotels that were very serviceable but very small. The general view before we organised Japan was that accommodation was very expensive. It ended up not being, averaging out at $120 per night.
The similar strains of best price horror were trumpeted loudly about France and Italy – especially Paris. Again, these fears were unfounded with our accommodation in 3+ Star accommodation in bed and breakfasts and hotels averaging out at $130 per night.
Of the 32 nights away, we booked 29 nights before we left: Paris 7, Aix-en-Provence 6, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin 3, Venice 4, Florence 4, and Rome 5.
Recommendations always play a part in accommodation choice – not from Trip Advisor and the like, but family and friends. Marilyn Bestetti recommended both Paris (St Christophe Hotel) and Venice (Villa Casanova in Lido). Cousin Anne-Marie Troutman recommended Les Deux Frères' (the Two Brothers) in Roquebrune Village in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin – having been to a wedding there.
Hotel Saint-Christophe, 17 Rue Lacepede, Monge, Paris
St Christophe is part of the Logis Group of hotels small hotels. After a long flight, negotiating the trains from Charles de Gaulle Airport, and popping our head up at Place Monge from the Metro Line 7, we realised that St Christophe was going to be great. A small street, pleasant concierge, and a tiny lift that indicated it could hold 4 people, but 2 of us was a squeeze. Then the room.
Small, but delightful. Opening to a Juliette window that allowed up to peer at the Eiffel Tower in the distance. To watch the passing parade below. Or to lie down and watch the obviously over-rated BBC World Service on TV. It was a little bit warm, so the only downer was that the window opened in, and the lovely lace curtain sort of held the window closed. Thus getting airflow was an effort. Hate to be in the room in the peak of summer.
The breakfast room was in the basement, which required us to use a beautiful ornate wooden circular staircase – and steep! Brekky was a selection of breads, café ole or tea, and yoghurt. A very nice start each morning.
Toilets fascinate me for all the right engineering reasons. The Saint-Christophe version had a very sharp s-bend. Having eaten bread in 15 varieties for 2 days, when I finally did shit a baguette, it took 4 flushes and interesting use of the toilet brush to poke it down.
A small negative to Mr Light Sleeper was the noisy drunkards who would woke me up about 3:00am from hotel around the corner. A small price to pay.
Adagio Hotel, Rue des Chartreux, Aix-en-Provence
Cue déjà vu honeymoon in Sussex Inlet. Single beds and pillow less. Got the pillows sorted, but never did get the double bed. Always check the fine print I suppose, but anyway we are here to travel and seek out the pleasures of other peoples and cultures – not ourselves.
We went for this apartment style so that we could prepare some meals ourselves, and not be locked in to the hotel breakfast. This worked very well and we did eat in a number of times.
Les Deux Frères', Roquebrune Village, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
With the three of us (Tony, Veronica and Tim) being the only ones getting of the train, making our way to the hotel was looking problematic. No transport at station, and the Taxi phone was buggered. Finally we deciphered a Taxi number and got a lift which was essential as it is about 2,000 steps us to the hotel!
Les Deux Frères' has a magnificent view over the Mediterranean to Monaco, perched as it is in the medieval ‘view village’ about 600m above sea level. And our room! Shuttered windows opened out to a coastal view that was stunning. The bed and the ambience of the place was special.
Hotel, Desenzano
The night we were leaving Roquebrune, we decided to cross Milan off the list, and looked at the northern Italy lakes area on the net. Desenzano looks nice, so lets do it. Arrived the next night having travelled from late morning via Ventimiglia and Milan, then taxi the 3 kilometres from the station. Nothing special in terms of the room, but very comfortable none the less. Here too, we had breakfast as part of the deal.
Now I am no chef, but I think I can boil eggs. On the second morning, the whole basket of eggs was uncooked, except the first one Veronica took. The manager (a female Basil Fawlty) came over and checked one, two then three eggs before declaring – they are not cooked! Off she went, basket in hand, to confront Manuel who no doubt would have got a shock when she proved the eggs were raw by smashing them on his head. Funny as.
Villa Casanova, Lido Island.
Another recommendation, and a top place away from the hustle and bustle of Venice proper. After arriving at Venezia Santa Maria (main railway station) and walking out the front entrance, we were greated by the Grand Canal only metres away. Was this a movie or what? Then onto the canal boat to Lido Island, via the Grand Canal. It was truly jaw dropping.
At Lido, again the sense of direction failed, and the support of a local was required to point us to the Villa Casonova. It too just looked the part. The gate, house set back from the street, and red rendered 3-storey residence invited you to enjoy this place and Venice.
The manager here liked to be present at breakfast, check in and check out. Breakfast it seemed was his specialty. Cereals, breads and some eggs and sausages and the like were an excellent start to the day. The breakfast room also is a great place to chat with fellow travellers about what has been seen and what is next.
Unfortunately, the entertainment for night one and night two revolved around throwing socks at the hordes of mozzies that had invaded the room. We did end up buying mozzie spray in a can that big that I expect it still will be there when we go back to Lido in 10 years time.
Hotel Columba, Florence
In all the meticulous planning, the location of our Florence hotel was left back in Sydney. Thankfully, a Lonely Planet Guide of a fellow Aussie travelling on the same train from Venice had a map that pointed us on our way. The walk from Firenze station was only 1 kilometre.
The owners and staff at this place were very nice. The manager had lived in Australia for 20 years. Good tourist information was available, as were social chats and advice. Again, the breakfast area was enjoyable to share with other guests.
Convent Concenzianiste Missionare, 75 Bixio Via, Rome
I don’t suggest that you put a Monastery Stay at the end of a long trip. Bookend this cheap but comfortable accommodation between more luxurious stays.
The convent itself was a great building and no doubt full of history and spiritual significance. But a place to relax it ain’t. Communication with the manager Sr Bertrill was via signs, grunts and the occasional drawing. The room was very basic, with nicely separated single beds and no television. But the price was basic as well, so you get what you pay for.
Breakfast was consistent. Bread rolls and jam. Oh – and a cup of tea. If there were a lot of people at breakfast – as there was one morning – then the bread was rationed by a bloke with long white robes and a beard.
The curfew was 11:00pm which was not a problem for us social butterflies. Only coming back from Napoli did we think we might have to sleep on the streets. But the noise from the trams and traffic was horrendous. The window had to be closed to shut out some of the noise. Thankfully there was a ceiling fan. Don’t book this place in summer.
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